Time To Check Those Kidding Supplies

Actually it's a little late to be checking kidding supplies, since Helen is rapidly approaching her due date.

Helen's due date is March 11. Kinders often kid earlier than standard
size goats, however. She's not real big so I'm thinking twins or a single.

I realized I was late in performing this chore when I looked at the bottle of sterile calcium gluconate I used on Surprise last year. The 500 ml bottle was almost empty and had expired about a year ago. Worse, it had little black thingies floating around in it. Time to throw it out. Tractor Supply Co.'s supply was all out of date as well! Hopefully I won't need it this year.

For my first kidding event several years ago I looked at all the lists of recommended kidding supplies and felt a bit overwhelmed. I bought what I thought were the basics, and have added items since. What I added was based on my kidding experiences; it's horrible to need something at 2 AM on a Saturday with no way to get what's needed. So here's my list. Hopefully others will share theirs as well.

Basics:

• Several old towels - for drying kids
• Betadine - for umbilical cords although the moms often chew these off
• Flashlights, lantern, or headstrap light if there is no electricity in the birthing area - in case it happens at night!
• Bulb syringe - for clearing little mouths and noses if needed
• chair or stool - more comfortable for watching and waiting
• Selenium/E oral gel - for the kids, because I live in a selenium deficient area. Many folks give BoSe injections, but this is a prescription item. The gel is not.
• Blackstrap molasses - after kidding molasses in warm water is often recommended for the doe. She'll be tired, hungry, and thirsty and drink this down. Any molasses can be used, but I like the nutrients in blackstrap
• Lubricant - such as Vaseline or KY jelly in case the third stage of labor (pushing) takes longer than 30 to 45 minutes. If that's the case then some help may be needed. I've encountered two kids trying to be born at the same time, head first presentation with bent front knees (needed straightening out), and a frank breech (tail first). The only one I couldn't save was the breech baby.
• Obstetric gloves (?) - I bought a package of these. They are elbow length and size large. I find them too awkward and clumsy to wear, so I just scrub up before going in.
• Sterile, sharp scissors - for cutting an umbilical cord if necessary (usually not)
• Chemical wormer - Holistic goat expert Irene Ramsey recommends worming the dam immediately after kidding to prevent parasites from taking advantage of the stresses of labor and delivery.
• Pritchard nipples and a bottle they'll fit - in case there are too many kids for the mother to manage, or, unthinkably, something happens to her. I can milk colostrum directly from her to feed, but hopefully I'll have on hand - 
• Frozen colostrum. There's a powdered cross-species mix which can be purchased, but it's not anything I would want to feed if I could help it. Extra can be milked from a plentifully producing doe and frozen in ice cube trays or muffin tins. 
• Kid coats - if it's winter time cold
• Camera!

For emergencies I also like to keep on hand:

• Nutridrench - for any kid that seems weak or a bit slow starting. It contains energy and B vitamins. If that doesn't do the trick, the nasty taste always gets them going. Also good for a doe in ketosis (pregnancy toxemia).
• CMPK drench - for prevention of milk fever (hypocalcemia). I'd give to a doe which was down, disoriented, and couldn't get up. It's oral so it's not as fast acting as an injection.
• Calcium gluconate - injection for hypocalcemia. If the doe has had a good diet with a proper calcium and phosphorous balance, this won't be necessary. Still, I feel better having it on hand
• Injection vitamin B complex - for any goat that seems weak or disoriented. Especially helpful for pregnancy toxemia to stimulate the doe's appetite.
• Luer lock syringes, both 3 cc and 6 cc sizes
• Needles - I like the 20 gauge, 3/4 inch size. It's large enough for most liquids and small enough to not be as painful as a larger gauge (the smaller the number the larger the gauge). The length is perfect for giving subcutaneous (subQ, i.e.under the skin) injections

Optional:

• scales - for weighing kids if desired

I hope I'm not forgetting something. If I have, I'll amend the list as soon as I think of it. 

Daphne's due date is three weeks after Helen's. Daphne is a bit
bigger than Helen, so I'm guessing twins or triplets (or more). 

Those of you with goats, what do you like to keep on hand at kidding season?

Time To Check Those Kidding Supplies © March 2015 by Leigh at http://www.5acresandadream.com/

Earning Their Keep. When Are They? When Aren't They?

Lily and Surprise

My goat plan for the year was to keep my two Nubians in milk until my Kinders kidded. Having been milkless in the past, I hope that by not breeding one or two of my does each year but milking them through, I'd benefit both the goats and us. They'll get a break from the stresses of pregnancy and kidding, and I'll have year around milk. I don't actually need a lot, especially if I'm not in a cheese making mode, but I want enough to keep my kefir alive and to help feed the pigs.

From what I've read, some goats are better suited than others for milking through. Every now and then I read about a doe who's still producing a quart or more per day after two years of kidding. That's more the exception than the rule, but that kind of producer is nice to have around.

It finally got to a point were Lily and Surprise together were giving a little more than a pint per day, but eating just as much as always. With my first due Kinder date coming up, it was time to make a decision. Each Nubian eats almost twice the amount that each Kinder eats. Even though I'm not one to usually rate things on a money scale (see "Contemplations on Value & Money") the question of when they are no longer earning their keep, nonetheless, came to mind, especially since I'd already decided to sell them.

Helen and Daphne

To some that may sound somewhat heartless, to get rid of animals when they no longer produce enough to make them "worth" it. That may make sense for a hobby homesteader, but for those of us working toward sustainability, it misses the point. The very definition of sustainability on a homestead requires balance. Any scenario where input exceeds output, or output exceeds supply, is not sustainable. Eventually, one thing gives up or the other runs out. Small scale sustainability requires tough decisions.

If I had the land and resources, I could happily allow all my animals to retire and live out their lives in comfort and ease. Having small acreage means we must carefully steward and protect our land from overuse. I would love to keep 20 goats, but must be realistic. I'm hoping I can manage 4 to 6 does over winter and 2 or 3 bucks. That includes pasture and forage plus areas for growing hay and feedstuffs. It also means I must sell or trade animals still in their prime so as to have value to the person taking them.

Long story short, Lily and Surprise have gone to a new home with someone who is thrilled to have them. I priced them in hopes they'd go together, i.e. $50 discount for buying both. I've learned that critters which are bought or sold with a companion have a much easier transition with less stress on everyone. They went to a 41 acre farm with other critters including other goats, plus animal-loving 4-H kids.

The only one who's not to happy about the whole thing is Bunny.

Bunny

For some reason Surprise and Lily tolerated her, while the Kinders girls don't. But that's just life in the animal world and I know adjustments will eventually be made.

Earning Their Keep. When Are They? When Aren't They?
© March 2015 by Leigh at http://www.5acresandadream.com/

Riley Wants In

The improvements on the front porch, although slow, are not unappreciated. The formerly screened in front porch is now open, accessible, and ideal for making feline wishes known.

Riley Wants In © March 2015 by Leigh
at http://www.5acresandadream.com/