Showing posts with label brickwork. Show all posts
Showing posts with label brickwork. Show all posts

September 20, 2025

Test Fire for the Smoke By-pass & Stove Improvement #3

We had a test fire the other day to see if our smoke by-pass worked. Success! It's going to take some figuring out in terms of judging when the thermal mass is heated enough to close it, but that will have to wait. It's still too warm outside to heat the house more than it already is. But by opening and closing the damper we could make some assessments.

One of those assessments were a few smoke leaks in the mortar between the bricks. We noted these last year but waited to figure out what to do. One option was to repoint the brickwork, which involves touching up the mortar between all of the bricks. Dan wasn't too keen on this. The other option was to plaster the entire stove. This would deal with any small leaks and also give the stove an entirely different look.

We considered covering the brickwork with mortar last year, but I liked the look of the brick so we left it. Experience has an amazing way of changing one's mind, however. 

Here's the stuff Dan is using.

Structo-Lite. Dan found it at Ace Hardware for about $26 for 50#.

Structo-Lite contains gypsum plaster and perlite, has good insulation value, and is suitable for high heat applications. 


It dries to an off-white. Coloring is available to mix in, but I thought off-white was a nice neutral color that will go well with any color scheme. 

To get a cleaner edge on the corners, Dan found this trick on youtube.


His brickwork wasn't as even on the corners as he'd like, so the mesh pretty much evens them more consistently for plastering. 

So that's what's up at the moment. Two coats are recommended, and then we can have a second test fire. 

November 4, 2024

Masonry Stove: A Bake Oven

We left off last time with this photo  . . .

From Masonry Stove: A Wee Bit More Progress

The final stretch of the brickwork was to create an oven. The arched roof is reminiscent of pizza ovens, and it just seemed that an oven was the perfect thing for that space. The first step was an oven floor. Dan started by using his grinder to make slots to hold three pieces of angle iron.

The front and middle irons inserted into the slot. One more will go behind.

The three pieces of angle iron hold two rows of firebricks. 


For a drip pan to protect the bricks from spillage (just in case!), I purchased an oven bottom liner replacement.


I would have preferred a larger one, but this was the closest in size I could find. I don't know if I'll bake many drippy dishes in the oven (like pies or pizza) but this will certainly be easier to clean than the brick if I have to. 

Then Dan continued with the bricks until the placement of the oven door. 



For the oven rack, I bought a 3-piece cast iron replacement grate for gas grills. 

The grates fit perfectly and are removable for cleaning.

For the picture below, I removed one of the grates so you can see how he got them level with the bottom of the door opening.


We discovered that the height of a firebrick on its side was perfect. Two more pieces of angle iron (in this case, they are actually iron bed rails) are wedged between the brick walls and hold the grates in place. It's a good height for the grate, with plenty of space underneath for hot air circulation.

Next was installing the oven door. Like our firebox door, we got it from Firespeaking. And like the firebox door frame, Dan screwed a steel sleeve over the top of the frame.


This was because there was just a couple of inches gap between the top of the frame and the brick arch. The steel sleeve supports the slivers of brick and mortar needed to close and seal that gap.

With the oven door frame in place.

What I didn't get a picture of was the strips of insulation tucked in around the frame. That was included with the kit. 

Door complete.


The opening is 15 & 5/8 inches, which is wide enough to accommodate my pizza stone. Whether or not I will ever bake a pizza in it remains to be seen. This is because of how the stove is operated. Unlike cast iron stoves, which often keep a fire all day, a masonry stove uses only two fires a day. The fire heats the bell (hollow brick structure), which radiates heat over a period of time. So I won't have fine-tuned temperature control in the oven. I'm going to have to put an oven thermometer in it and monitor the heat until I can identify patterns and when it's at baking temperatures. 

The last thing to do will be to install the stovepipe for the chimney. Then we can have a breaking-in fire.

October 16, 2024

Masonry Stove: A Wee Bit More Progress

Time flies. We've been busy with hurricane cleanup and finishing up in the garden. The weather's been beautiful, except no rain so far this month, So I've been watering our fall garden seedlings. Dan's made a little more progress on the masonry heater.


As you can see, we're getting into the home stretch. Probably none too soon. :)

October 9, 2024

Masonry Heater Door


I'm slow on my progress reports for this project. Part of that has to do with selecting and optimizing photos. Also, as little things are needed, there is often a delay to get them, because so little is available locally anymore. Expedient shipping is difficult to find as well. Plus, we had several dark stormy days without electricity for lighting and power tools. Then there were several days of hurricane clean-up. But finally, I've got progress to show you.

This is where we left off last time.

The core has been insulated and the front of the heater begun.

We used a ceramic fiber blanket to insulate it.

The sheet metal sleeve fits over the door frame and fills in
the gap between the frame and the core. Not sure what it's called.
Dan made it based on videos of German masonry stove builders.

It's insulated too.

The door frame is both bolted and wired to the bricks.

From there the brickwork can continue.

Firebox door frame installed. The door will be added later.

That's it for the moment. 

September 12, 2024

Masonry Heater: Building the Core



The core consists of two parts: the firebox and a modified riser. The riser is basically an internal chimney of specific length. It's purpose is to complete the burning of the wood (exhaust) gases produced by the fire. The port is a specific opening between the firebox and the riser. It regulates the exit of heat and exhaust from the firebox. It's the combination of the burn chamber, riser, and port that makes for an efficient, clean, smokeless burn of the firewood.  

Dan poured the base for the core before he started the brickwork. 

First layer of firebrick. Refractory mortar is typically used for these. 


The firebox (burn chamber) is in front, the modified riser
is behind. The opening between the two is called the port.

There are a number of designs and variations for a core. Our's is called a "double shoe box," chosen because of our space limitations.

You might recall this cutaway image from my Masonry Heater Project post.

It's designed to retain the heat and smoke to facilitate a clean, efficient burn. 

For the top, Dan used ceramic fiber board.




The smokeless heat exits the core through the slot in the top.


The heat is held in the thermal mass to radiate heat to the bricks, and in turn to the rest of the house. As it cools, the warm air sinks and exits the chimney at the bottom of the mass. 

The channel in the bottom is for the 
secondary air tube, pictured here.

The firebox door is next. (Click here to continue).

September 6, 2024

Masonry Heater: Progress on the Thermal Mass

Continued from Masonry Heater Project

One decision that had to be made was, how should the top of the stove be finished off? Flat one-piece? Flat bricked? Arched? Corbelled? How did we want it to look? Which would be more practical? Which would be easier to build? Each idea had to be analyzed in terms of time, skill, and resources. 

Dan continually asked for my input and preferences, but I was honestly okay with any of the above. I told him to choose the option that he felt most comfortable with. The following photos will pretty much speak for the process.

Form for a brick arch. There isn't anything you can't learn on YouTube.

If you recall, the woodstove alcove walls above the bricks are cement board.


Dan cut the bricks to make the circular shape







One question that might come to mind is, how did we know how big to make it? There's a formula for that! Ours is a 6-inch system (based on the size of the chimney pipe), so we aimed for an internal surface area (ISA) of approximately 57 square feet. 

August 20, 2024

Masonry Heater Project

Last time, I explained a bit about masonry stoves, how they work, and how they've evolved over the centuries (Masonry Heaters: A Bit of a History). Our stove design is based on the wisdom and experience of the latest technology.

The two main components of the stove are the thermal mass and the firebox. Typically, the thermal mass is built as a bench (often used for seating) or as a "bell" (big hollow box). We have no place in our living room for a bench, so a bell will reside in the alcove Dan built for our soapstone woodstove years ago. 


Above the brick the walls are cement board, with a specific air gap between the alcove walls and the walls behind. The vents at the top of the alcove serve to vent warm air. This is the ready-made space we have for the new stove. 

For the firebox, we chose what's called a double shoebox designed by Peter van den Berg. It's useful for smaller spaces, like we've got. Here's a cutaway . . .
Photo credit: Batchrocket.eu

The entire unit is referred to as the core. Here's Dan's dried-in practice build on the front porch.

The sides are firebrick and the tops are ceramic fiber board. 

So what makes this firebox more efficient? And how does it work without filling the house with smoke because of the retained exhaust pathway? The answers are in the way it's designed. 


The narrow opening at the back of the firebox is called the port. By slowing the escape of the heat and smoke from the firebox, it forces the exhaust gases to be burned. It's these gases that deposit soot in the chimney as they cool on their way out. In this design, the gases and ash are converted to heat energy before they exit the firebox. So the fire burns more completely and more cleanly. It's the same principle as the catalytic combustor on our soapstone stove. You can read a more detailed explanation at Peter van den Berg's website, here. 

Besides cleaner, safer smoke, people report a decrease in wood fuel consumption by up to 75-80%. What's not to like about that?

It must be noted that the dimensions of the design are important: firebox, port, thermal mass, and chimney must all be sized properly. A sizing chart can be found at Peter's website. 

The other question is, given the convoluted chimney path, how do we get enough draft to direct the smoke out the chimney instead of into the room? The answer is with two air intakes. 

The first is in the firebox door.

Photo credit: Firespeaking.com. This is the door we
purchased and which you will see in future blog posts.

The second is the secondary air tube.

We ordered ours from Dragon Technology.

It fits in the channel in the firebox, 


 . . . and will be under the door. It delivers continuous fresh air to the port in the back of the firebox, supplying steady oxygen to keep the fire hot enough to burn the exhaust gases. It will be cut to fit after the core is built in the bell and the door installed. 

Progress so far has been building the bell. Following are a few photos I took over the past several weeks. 


If you look carefully, you can see where the chimney will exit the bell. It's placed low in the bell where the coolest air is.  


We're going to re-use the chimney pipe from the soapstone stove.


The sides are being constructed first because the space is tight and Dan needs working room for the top of the heater. The core will be added after that. 


The other question was about cleaning out the bell. For that, a clean-out door will be added later (something like this), roughly where I made the red square below, next to the chimney flue. 


We'll access it from the adjacent bedroom (where my big floor loom now resides. Photos at that link). 

Dan cleans out our chimneys every autumn with a chimney brush, and then uses his shop vac to vacuum out any residue that falls to the bottom. Even with our soapstone stove there has been very little soot build-up. The clean-out door is large enough to accommodate the nozzle and hose of the shop vac. The fire box, of course, is swept out with a whisk broom. 

Continued here ⇢ Progress on the Thermal Mass