October 11, 2017

The Challenges of Sustainable Pastures

When I signed up for the slow life I didn't dream that it would be this slow. I can accept that a learning curve requires some experimentation to figure out. But when one is working with annual cycles, such as pasture management, that trial and error can mean it takes years to figure something out!

Luke in the buck pasture in September.

One of our goals is to feed our livestock from our land. That sounds pretty straightforward, doesn't it? But learning to go from modern animal management practices to the simpler agrarian model has been extremely challenging. One of the things I have learned in our attempt is that humans are a whole lot better at complicating things than simplifying them!

Of course, trying to focus on too many goals at once makes a slower go of it. So once the barn is done (our #1 priority), Dan's and I are going to turn our focus on our pasture and forage areas. This post will review our novice attempts to work toward that self-sufficiency goal, including what we've done right, what we've done wrong, and what we need to improve.

Same pasture in May of this year.

One of my "mistakes" (quotes because it wasn't a wrong decision, just a decision that hasn't helped me work toward my long term goals) has been to plant annual pasture forage every fall and spring. I've done this because of local seed availability. My local perennial pasture choices are bermudagrass (wiregrass planted on purpose) and tall fescue (which has recently earned the label of "toxic fescue," because animals do so poorly on it). Rather than buy expensive mail order perennial pasture seed (shipping often doubles the cost), I've worked with more economical locally purchased annual.

Annual pasture and hay mixes (such as deer and turkey forage mixes) are available, economical, grow well and are tasty and nutritious. But since I often can't coordinate the planting and growing of warm and cool mixes, I'm often left with minimal forage in between the seasons, and bare spots where the annuals have died. No good because something always volunteers to grow in the bare spots and it usually isn't what my goats need and will eat. The weather is key too, of course, and our seasons are unpredictable. Our climate is supposedly mild, but it's the extremes we need to plan for. For example, we've had winters that were too cold and snowy for forage to grow. Some summers we get enough rain, but sometimes summer is too hot and dry for anything to grow.

Anna and Cinnamon in the doe pasture in June.

Remineralizing, is something we've done right. Healthy forage needs the right balance of soil minerals to grow. Animals need minerals too, so it's much better in the long run for them to get their minerals from forage. Otherwise I'm constantly have to buy all their minerals. Detailed testing and purchasing organic amendments is expensive, so we've only tested and amended some of our forage areas. But this is an excellent investment in our land and heading us in the right direction.

Planting a variety of grasses, legumes, and forbs has been something else we've done right. Dan has been reading Joel Salatin's Salad Bar Beef and I'm going to say it's a must-read for anyone who wants to pasture animals. Dan also found an video by Gabe Brown on this topic, "Cover Crops for Grazing." Excellent! We're realizing we're on the right track, we just need to plant a greater variety with more perennials.

Doe pasture in August.

Keeping the chickens from gobbling up newly seeded areas has been a huge fail, and it's an expensive way to feed chickens! I clip their wings and we keep them in their yard after seeding areas, but there are always one or two escapees anyway! One chicken can do a lot of damage on a newly seeded quarter acres. The ducks have been bad about his too, and they are harder to contain.

This year's young chickens (and squirrel) on pasture.

Soil building is another badly needed goal. My modified-Fukuoka method of planting has been encouraging, but it's slow going.

Rotating grazing livestock is another must for maintaining healthy forage plus animal parasite control. From my observations I've come to the conclusion that we need more paddocks and we need to rotate more frequently. We're looking into intensive rotational grazing, similar to what Greg Judy describes in this blog post. That would address both rotation plus the soil building goals. Goats are a bit different than cattle though, so we have to keep that in mind as we fine tune any plans.

Because of all this, pasture improvement has been under much discussion and research for awhile now, and we are working on a specific plan, with specific steps to accomplish our goal, including moving some fences and gates (much of our fence is in need of repair anyway). As we get ready to make the shift from barn building to pasture renovation, I'll share specifics with you in a upcoming post or two, along with an updated Master Plan. Stay tuned!

It's true, the grass is always greener on the other side
of the fence (even though it's the exact same thing!)

October 8, 2017

Reconsidering the Muscovies

Dan and I recently revisited our "Winter Numbers" discussion with what to do about all our ducks. The original idea was to keep just two over winter, with the rest relegated to the freezer. But over lunch one day, we began discussing the Muscovies, our set up, and how much trouble work they are with our present barnyard arrangements.


Trying to decide what to do is not an easy decision, because we like the Muscovies; they are a neat bird. Very likable. Even though they supposedly don't need water, they love it so we keep a kiddy pool filled for them. That means there is the chore of emptying and refilling it. Ideally that water could be used on plants, but logistics aren't in favor of that.

Other considerations? Muscovies are flyers, so they are continually going over to root around through the neighbors' flower beds. Or I'm trying to shoo them out of the hay because they poop on it. Worse, they've been roosting on Dan's barn beams and leaving poop all over everything below. They provide eggs and meat, but the eggs are too rich for Dan. The meat is delicious, but ducks are very labor intensive to pluck. They are prolific, with M.O.M. setting on her third clutch of eggs for the year.


If we don't watch out we'll be overrun with Muscovies!

Any time an animal (or animals) creates an imbalance in time, resources, or benefits, it's time to rethink keeping them. We originally got them as a trade, and so didn't have a set-up specifically for ducks. We've discussed ideas to accommodate them, but for now, time and resources are demanded elsewhere. So, we're putting most of them into the freezer and will rehome our original pair. Kinda sad, but it's the right decision for now.

October 5, 2017

Borax for Fur Mites on Cats

Katy

Several month ago our Katy started pulling out her fur. It was mostly on her lower back, and there were little tufts of fur everywhere. She was so obsessed with this that she practically did nothing else. She was constantly licking, biting, and pulling, until her lower back was starting to look bald. We examined her closely, but couldn't see anything. Still, something was clearly wrong.

I researched this and found a number of causes. Stress is one of them.

Katy and Meowy have consistently refused to be friends.

Allergies is another cause. We already have the cats on a no-wheat, no-corn, and no-soy diet, so I stopped giving her milk. The problem continued.

Another cause is fur mites. When Dan found what looked like teeny tiny larvae in her sleeping spot, we concluded it was mites after all. I started looking for shampoos for this. In my research I ran across a homemade mite shampoo from Vetinfo. It called for 1 or 2% hydrogen peroxide, warm water, borax, and Vitamin E, mixed and applied to cat's fur for several days in a row. It was said to kill adult mites, eggs, and larvae.

I didn't have vitamin E, but I had the rest of the ingredients, so I mixed up what I had. It took the two of us to wrestle her down and work it into her fur, but it seemed to work. For awhile. Then she would start with the fur pulling again. I reckoned that to get rid of the problem once and for all we'd need to soak her in a warm borax solution bath and massage it into her skin.

Dan was skeptical that we could manage a bath, but being an old pro at giving cats baths, I said not to worry. I filled the kitchen sink with warm water and dissolved a handful of 20 Mule Team Borax into it. Then I picked her up and securely held her legs in my hands and lowered her in up to her neck. Dan worked it into her skin. We had a large warm towel at the ready and after we dried her off as best we could she took off like a firecracker and hid.

A little while later we found her on the bed giving herself a bath. I worried a little about her ingesting the borax, but I was also worried about the mites. After she'd dried herself off she went to sleep and slept all day. That was the first time we'd seen her actually sleep in weeks.

Katy in her favorite chair.

I laundered everything she slept on with hot water and borax so she wouldn't re-infest herself. She stopped the incessant licking and fur pulling and her fur is gradually growing back. Amazingly, none of the other cats got it!

I was glad to find a simple solution without any fancy, expensive chemicals. Now if we could just find something similar to get rid of fleas...

Borax for Fur Mites on Cats © Oct. 2017 by