Showing posts with label animals. Show all posts
Showing posts with label animals. Show all posts

June 15, 2018

New Book Non-review and Giveaway!

I don't know if anyone else has been looking forward to this announcement, but I certainly have been. My Prepper's Livestock Handbook is now available! It's part of Ulysses Press's Prepper series, which includes a lot of truly excellent books. I'm proud to be part of that group.

Why a non-review? Well, because I can't exactly review my own book, and I don't want to give you a sales pitch. I do want to give you an idea of what you can expect to find in it, and to host a giveaway!

Here's the official blurb from my Kikobian.com website.

Livestock care from a preparedness point of view. 

You will learn: which livestock is best suited to preparedness, options for shelter and fencing, how to establish and maintain good pasture, how to grow and store hay, strategies for feeding your farm animals without going to the feed store, options for breeding, birthing, veterinary care, and sustainable dairying. Also pitfalls to avoid and how to keep things manageable. And if the grid ever fails, you will know how to preserve and store eggs, dairy foods, and meat without electricity. The Preppers Livestock Handbook focuses on simple, low-tech, off-grid methods for managing your land and your livestock. It is an excellent addition to any prepper, homestead, or self-reliance library.

Chapters:
  • Ch. 1   First Things First
  • Ch. 2   Best Breeds fpr Self-Reliance
  • Ch. 3   Barns, Shelters, and Fencing
  • Ch. 4   Forage and Feed
  • Ch. 5   Breeding and Pregnancy
  • Ch. 6   Blessed Events: Birthing and Hatching
  • Ch. 7   Eggs, Milk, and Meat
  • Ch. 8   Keeping Them Healthy
  • Ch. 9    Keeping Them Safe
  • Ch. 10  Keeping Things Manageable
  • Conclusion: If SHTF

Includes at-a-glance charts and lists for:
  • Livestock overviews (sizes, ex[ected production, acreage needed, natural and productive lifespans, example breeds)
  • Grasses, legumes, and forbs (annuals, perennials, warm and cool season examples)
  • Hay Feeding Needs
  • Homegrown and foraged feeds
  • Natural vitamin and mineral sources
  • Gestation times for livestock
  • Labor times and number of offspring
  • Incubation times for various poultry
  • Homemade feeds for hatchlings
  • Supply lists (birthing, hatching, milking, routine and emergency care)
  • Alternative de-wormers and medications
  • How to know when you need a vet
  • Normal range of vital signs
  • Common livestock predators (includes signs of attack)
  • and more

Resources are listed by chapter, so you can know where to find the things I talk about.

It's available in paperback or several eBook formats. The paperback is 192 pages and lists for $15.95. You can find it at the following websites and bookstores:

Giveaway is over. Congratulations to the winner!

May 13, 2018

A Very Exciting "Coming Soon!!!"


Yes! My newest book is scheduled to be released next month and is ready to pre-order at Amazon, Barnes & Noble, or your favorite independently owned local bookstore! It is part of Ulysses Press's prepper series and is my first non-self-published book. I've reviewed a number of books in this excellent series, and was surprised when they asked me to participate with a prepper's book for livestock. I was excited to say yes.

Dan and I have always thought that the best preparedness strategy is to become as self-reliant as possible. We knew that if we wanted fresh milk, eggs, cheese, and meat as part of our preparedness pantry, then we have to figure out self-reliant ways to feed our critters, plus learn ways to preserve and store these items without having to buy supplies or rely on electricity. This book is a compilation of everything I've learned about self-sufficient livestock keeping.

Who is this book for?

Anyone who is interested in:
  • Self-reliant, sustainable homesteading
  • Feeding your farm animals from your land
  • Long-term food preparedness that goes beyond canned foods and dry goods

How is it different from other books on homestead livestock?

It approaches livestock keeping from the goal of self-sufficiency. It is written to help you transition from modern philosophies and techniques to sustainable, alternative, and off-grid ways of: managing livestock, growing your own forage, hay, feeds, and alternative feeds, preserving and keeping eggs, milk, and meat. In other words, it covers everything Dan and I wish we'd known before we got started!

I've included charts to help you compare various breeds of animals (some breeds are better suited for self-reliance than others!), and find important information at a glance such as pasture grasses, legumes, and forbs divided into warm and cool weather annuals and perennials. There are also supply lists for routine and emergency health care, pregnancy, labor, and delivery. It offers traditional and alternative methods for keeping your critters healthy. Also how to keep your livestock safe and how to identify predators from the signs they leave behind. An extensive resource list helps you find more information to meet your specific goals and needs.

The last chapter, "Keeping Things Manageable," is written to help you stay on track and avoid the pitfalls that can lead to homestead burnout. I think this is so important because it doesn't take long for things to become overwhelming. Helping you succeed is important to me.

Would it be corny to say "and more?" I know that sounds kinda salesy, but this book covers so much more than anything I've ever blogged about. I'm really pleased to offer it all as a handy resource.

The book is 192 pages and lists at $15.95. It will be available on June 15 in either paperback or eBook formats, but if you are interested in reserving a copy or two, you can pre-order now at:

Any of the above links will take you to a blurb about the book, but if you have any questions, please ask!

May 9, 2016

Of Decisions, Priorities, and Pigs


One of the lessons learned from homesteading with animals is to not get too attached to them. For one thing we just don't have the room to keep them all, and for another, they die. We've sold and traded plenty and had losses from diseases, accidents, predators, and old age. In the beginning it was hard not to be in love with having critters, if not the critters themselves. Even so we've known from the beginning that we have to love the land more. As the humans on the place, it's our job to serve both livestock and land and keep a balance that will meet the needs of both.


The goat barn represents a huge project, because it's means more than just building a building. It means we have to analyze it how it fits into the whole of the homestead. The goats, pasture, pasture rotation, field crops, the other critters, browse and forage areas, as well as the barn are part of the big picture. That meant rethinking fence lines, gates, traffic flow, how we're currently using our fenced areas, and future goals. To have working room to construct the barn we have to re-do all that temporarily, shuffle some critters around, and then put it back together in a new pattern suited to the new set-up. We also need to do fence repair from those fallen trees and general wear-and-tear.


We got out our Master Plan in order to discuss and visualize options. Because of the fencing situation, we couldn't see any way around confining the pigs while construction and fence rebuilding were going on, but we really didn't want to do that. In the end we decided it would be best to sell the pigs. I had just finished selling Polly's nine piglets, the freezer was full of pork, and if we could sell Waldo and Polly as a pair, we could replace them later when everything was back in order.


I priced them well and by the end of the day they were on their way to a new home. Our partnership with them was a good one and we learned a lot (which I'll share in an upcoming post.)


It seems strange not to have pig chores and hear pig grunts in the background all day long, but it was the best decision for them and us for the time being.

July 18, 2014

Of Routine and Spontaneity on the Homestead

About 15 years ago I managed a food co-op, i.e. bulk food buying club. It was a small club, where we put in a monthly order, met at a local church, unloaded the truck, divvied everything up, paid the treasurer, cleaned up, and went home. Like all groups we ran into problems along the way and had to make decisions from time to time. Something I observed was that members seemed to fall roughly into one of two groups: those who like rules and those who don't. Those who liked them thought they made the ordering and delivery processes orderly and efficient. Without the routine, they saw only chaos. The other group was the "go with the flow" folks. These seemed to thrive more on spontaneity and believed problems would work themselves out. They disliked rules because they felt stifled by them. This contrast was interesting to me and fortunately we all got along well and never had any knock-down-drag-outs because of our differences.

On the homestead I am learning that we need both routine and spontaneity. Animals, especially, thrive on routine. If things aren't predictable, they aren't happy. I try to set my routine according to their species nature and stick to it. If I'm late, I hear about it! Their care and feeding are my daily chores. They are the foundation of my day. No matter what else I'm doing, when it's chore time, it's chore time. Everything else must be set aside for another time.

Spontaneity on the homestead isn't exactly the same as it is in the rest of the modern world. We can't not do chores for the spontaneity of it, or load up the car on a whim for a weekend getaway. Our spontaneity must exist without the framework of our routine. Even so, interruptions in routine often happen when unexpected things present themselves, such as goats getting their horns stuck in a cattle panel, goats getting their horns stuck in each others' collars, guinea fowl squawking in the middle of the road and blocking traffic, or animals getting hurt or sick. All of these demand immediate action, and the day's plans are delayed if not down the tubes. We've learned that it's not so much spontaneity that's required, it's flexibility.

Weather is an unpredictable factor which requires flexibility on the homestead. In the typical modern lifestyle, weather is considered either cooperative or uncooperative; peoples' lives go on regardless. On a farm or homestead, weather determines everything. It's why we got so much done on our master suite last summer - rain! If rain looks imminent, we'll jump to projects that will be effected by it: raking in the hay, getting that building project covered, garden picking, etc. We try to schedule working with the soil around it. Unexpected rain or snow can put a halt to the day's plans and make us change direction. That's why we keep an outdoor project and an indoor project in the works at all times.

Our routine is so intertwined with the weather and the land that I have gradually come to see ourselves differently in the grand scheme of things. I no longer see nature as something we simply observe, appreciate, and preserve; nature is something we are a part of. It isn't something we can put fences around, scatter educational placards throughout, and build pathways with a donation box at the end of the trail. It was never meant to be that way, but modern life, which is all wrapped up in technology, pretty much thinks it can go on without it.

One challenge to flexibility is work style. Dan and I have very different work styles. When Dan commences a project, he sticks with it until it's done. He doesn't like unfinished, loose ends. I'm the kind of person who has several projects in the works at any given time. I'm not actually a good multi-tasker, it's just that there's always a gardening project, kitchen project, housework project, and writing project all floating around in my day. Dan tells me he couldn't work like that, but I remind him that my projects are ongoing ones, while his are start-to-finish ones: new fencinginstalling a wood cookstove, installing a rainwater collection system, or building a new chicken coop. For me, there will always be dishes to do, weeding to do, laundry to do, meals to cook, food to plant, pick, or preserve, errands to run, etc. I suppose it's part of why that saying came to be "A man works from sun to sun, but a woman's work is never done." Dan's projects can be marked with check boxes, mine are a lifestyle.

That doesn't mean developing a homesteading routine has been easy for me. I tend to get distracted by things that suddenly seem urgent, such as, "Oh no! The library books are due today!" In the beginning, especially, it was hard because there was so much to do. Then we got animals and were so thrilled when they ran up to us to beg for attention and food - so cute. One day I realized that the animals were dictating my day. The goats kept hollering to be fed earlier and earlier, and the chickens were jumping the fence to see if I had some tidbit to eat. I realized they needed a routine just as much as I did.

I do think there's a difference between spontaneity in the modern way of life and flexibility in an agrarian one. I think the worldly minded usually want flexibility to suit themselves. On the homestead, flexibility is required to suit everything else. I suppose that's why so many folks left the farm in the first place, for the freedom to not have to be flexible for the sake of everything else. Life appears so much simpler when everything appears to be predictable and one can be spontaneous simply for the fun of it.

Both Dan and I are still learning how to mentally balance routine with flexibility. There's a fine art of switching mental gears that neither of us has yet perfected. Sometimes we're mentally and emotionally set for one thing, but must switch to something else without losing motivation and enthusiasm. Hopefully we will someday be able to take it all in stride, simply saying, "It's all in a day's work".

July 3, 2012

Of Corn, Cowpeas, & Lawnmowers

Knee high by the 4th of July?

Trucker's Favorite field corn on the 4th of July

I heard that saying when I was a kid and thought it was some sort of rule farmers had to follow. ;) Looks pretty good, doesn't it? Confession; that's an after shot. Let me show you a "before."

Corn field before mowing
Corn field after mowing

This is our second year to grow field corn. Last year the weeds got absolutely out of control. I finally went in there with the lawnmower so I could get to the pole beans I had planted with it. This year I decided to take steps to try to keep it under control, i.e. to work smarter, not harder.

We have about half an acre designated for growing grain. (Master plan here). This is not just for us, but for animal feeds as well, because this is one of the goals we are working toward. One third of that half acre is still in the wheat we let go to seed. One third is corn, and the other third I planted in rows of cowpeas.

Traditional farming would use a farm tractor to both prepare the ground and then later cultivate between the rows to keep the weeds from getting too much of a head start. Trouble is, we don't have a farm tractor. Anything decent is way out of our price range, so we've had to make due with what we've got: a garden tiller and a gasoline push lawnmower.

Dan tilled the area for corn, which I've planted in sections, 4 rows at a time. That should be enough to ensure pollination, while making it easier for both planting and the harvest. I spaced the rows a lawnmower width apart.

In the middle third, I planted cowpeas

Ozark Razorback cowpeas harvested last year

We got a little smarter when it came time to plant the cowpeas and I asked Dan to only till the rows.

rows tilled for planting cowpeas
Ground tilled in rows and ready for planting. 

In between the rows of cowpeas I believe some wheat is coming up from shattered seed. Wheat plus weeds.

Cowpeas after mowing in between the rows

Almost looks like we know what we're doing, doesn't it. We could have made the rows closer together, because it takes at least two passes with the lawnmower to cut it. I'm considering letting the wheat grow once the cowpeas are established; an experiment with intercropping.

Neighbors on both sides and across the street all have farm tractors. I imagine I look a bit odd too them and get a chuckle out of that. I reflect too, on something I have found curious from comments on my blog. That is the tendency of a few, to assume that when one talks about homesteading, agrarianism, or the simple life, that one intends to totally abandon modern life in an attempt to return to some sort of primitive, backwards existence. For these folks, it appears to be "all or nothing." They cannot fathom a life that utilizes the best of both worlds.

Homesteaders get what I'm talking about. They understand that it isn't technology that is being rejected, but rather the complete and total dependency on it; the infatuation with it and inability to live without it. The simple life is not about doing nothing; it's about slowing down and being part of the basic process of living. It's not about acquiring the latest stuff, it's about acquiring a sense of purpose and freedom.

For the most part the corn looks pretty good. There are problems I will have to address however.

Problems with shade and soil fertility.

The growth rate difference is partly due to being planted at different times. The sparse soil though, is under a big pecan tree. Shade is one factor, but soil fertility is a bigger problem I think. That is something we must address.

As you can see, this is very much a live-&-learn experience with a lot of making-do thrown in for good measure. While I won't expect everything to be a "success," I know each year we will do a little better as we work toward our goal.

June 22, 2012

No Guarantees

I want to thank everyone who commented on my "Goat Updates" post. I very much appreciate your sympathies and encouragements. It was the kind of situation no one wants to face, and for which ordinary life does not prepare us. It was a good reminder however, that there are no guarantees in life, and that there are especially no guarantees in homesteading. It's a reminder that while I cannot always control my circumstances, I can always control my attitude towards them.

Emotionally, making the decision about what to do was the hardest part. The question that plagued us was, did we / are we, doing the "right" thing. Then we had to deal with disappointment which tried it's hardest to morph into discouragement. Spiritually, it was a test of faith. If I say I believe in a Sovereign God, then do I trust Him even if things aren't working out the way I expect?

On a practical level, I had to examine the choices that lie before me. Our goal was to start our own herd of Kinder goats and I have to reevaluate the practical and economical aspects of that goal. In a broader sense, our commitment is to self-sufficiency, but we're not there yet either. Goat milk, yogurt, cheese, etc., have become a mainstay of our diet. But do I want to buy another goat right now, when being a grocery consumer is such an easy option?

This engages my thoughts on an economic level. Some folks think having animals is more expensive than simply buying the product, but I disagree (see "The Economics of Food Self Sufficiency"). I recently saw raw goats milk at a farm at $8 a gallon. Raw cows milk is about $6 a gallon at the bulk food store. Then there's the fuel to drive there and the time to make the trip. Seems easier to let my goats live on pasture, browse, and a little grain, and simply milk them twice a day! Even so, there is still the potential for crises, like Jasmine breaking her leg. I have to decide if these are risks I am willing to take.

I'm writing about this, because my goal is always to encourage other homesteaders. That means writing about the problems and the bad things as well as the good. Unfortunately most of us are not well equipped for many aspects of the homesteading life, because it runs against the grain of modern culture. We know we want to slow down and simplify our lives, but we often don't know how to do that. We know we want to be less dependent on the system to meet our needs, but we often lack the knowledge, skills, and tools to do so.

One thing we all have to deal with is that of expectations. When Dan and I first bought our place, I planned to plant and grow everything we liked to eat. It didn't take long to figure out that everything we like to eat doesn't necessarily grow well here. It can be done, but it would take a lot of extra work. There are only so many hours in a day, so in the end we decided to adapt to our location and modify our diet.

Expectations become a pitfall, when they are attached to assumptions. This has become a modern social problem (at least I think so), and is one reason why there are so many stupid lawsuits; folks want a guaranteed outcome, guaranteed results. It's why prices always to up; businesses want guaranteed income, guaranteed profits. If something doesn't work out, we want to know why and we want somebody to be responsible. The fact that some things aren't anyone's fault, never occurs to some people.

In part, I think this is because human nature likes predictability. We make plans based on predictable outcomes. That's why most folks see farming, or the agrarian lifestyle in general, as a hard way to live. If you've read any of the Little House on the Prairie series, you know what I mean. How many times did Pa make plans for the harvest that didn't come in? "Don't count your chickens before they're hatched" is a well-known, well understood reference to the uncertainties of agrarian living.

It's especially difficult for those who like to be in control. Unfortunately there are some things that cannot be controlled: hurricanes, accidents, earthquakes, cancer, rainfall, how many eggs hatch, etc. Some folks have great faith that science will ultimately save us from the uncertain. I'm not one of them. I think it is far better to learn to accept life as it comes. I may not be able to control my circumstances, but I can certainly control my attitude towards them.

Intellectually I think we all know that working toward a self-sufficient lifestyle does not come with guarantees. Yet crises still catch us off guard despite our understanding. In the end, true success requires acceptance without blame. It requires adaptability. It requires being willing to take risks. Ma Ingalls used to say,“There's no great loss without some small gain.” Oftentimes the gain is experience and knowledge. If we can see that as a gift, then I think we will do well.

February 8, 2012

Calculating Protein With The Pearson Square

When I read the comments on my "More Thoughts On Growing Animal Feeds" post, I realized that there are quite a few of you researching and pondering the same thing, and coming up with a similar conclusion, that it's a complicated and often discouraging topic. Methods and opinions often contradict one another, as does the research. For goats though, most agree that forage (grass, browse, hay) should be the mainstay of their diet, supplemented with grain as needed, free choice minerals tailored for one's particular location, and plenty of fresh water.

Here is something though, that is useful for those of us wanting to make our own grain mixes, whether homegrown or purchased. It's the Pearson Square, a tool that can be used to calculate the amounts of two components needed in a particular mix. It was originally developed to standardize the fat and protein contents in commercially produced milk. Since then, it has been used for wine making, juice mixing, cheese making, baking, and of course, feed formulation. I read about it awhile back but didn't undertand it until Karen sent me a couple of links, this one at Colorado State, and this one from the Virginia Cooperative Extension. The first article helped especially, and in an attempt to master it myself, I'm going to try to explain it to you!

It can be used for any animal and any nutrient, but since I've been pondering protein, that's what I'll use in my examples. I'll start with whole wheat and cowpeas, things I've grown successfully here.

Problem: Determine the amounts of whole wheat and cowpeas needed to mix a goat feed of 16% crude protein (CP).

1. Target amount goes in the middle of the square. 

-----------------------------------------------------
Example: I'm working on crude protein for goats, 16%

2. Values for the feed stuffs are placed at left hand corners

Rule: The number in the middle must be 
intermediary between the numbers at the corners

---------------------------------------------------------
Example: 16 is between 13 and 23

3. Find the differences across the diagonal

Rule: subtract the lower number from the higher. 
Number order doesn't matter, just the difference. 
Write these in the right hand corners across the diagonal

-------------------------------------------------------
Example:
16 - 13 = 3
23 - 16 = 7

4. Look across the horizontal legs of the square for the parts needed for the ration

-----------------------------------------
Example: Going from left to right, I would need 7 parts whole wheat
and 3 parts cowpeas to get a 16% crude protein ration

The parts are translated as weights, so for example, I could mix 70 pounds of whole wheat and 30 pounds of cowpeas to achieve a 100 pound dairy goat ration of 16%.

Obviously the Pearson Square is very useful if only two things are involved. But what if I have more? What if one year I harvested 100 pounds of wheat (13% CP), 50 pounds of grain sorghum (10% CP), 90 pounds of cowpeas (23% CP), and 45 pounds of black oil sunflower seeds (16% CP). How would I know what amounts to mix to get my 16%? This gets trickier. I would have to make two mixes first, figure out the crude protein in each mix, and then use the Pearson Square to calculate how much I'd need of each. Wheat and grain sorghum could be combined as my grain mix, while the cowpeas and BOSS would be my protein supplement. This means math!

Problem: Determine the amounts needed to make a 16% crude protein feed mix with more than two ingredients.

Step 1: Find the percentage of each component in the mix.

Using the grain mix as an example, I'd first need to find out what percent of wheat I have, and what percent of sorghum. The easiest way would be with an online percentage calculator like (click here) this one. In that case you can skip to Step 2. If you're having to do this out in the barn by hand, or just want to understand the process, the formula is

Formula to determine the percentage of the parts

Example: to find the percentage of each ingredient in my grain mix, I first need to know the total (whole) weight.

100 lb wheat + 50 lb sorghum = 150 lb total
100 lb of wheat is what % of 150 lb?

Plugged into the formula...

Calculating the percentage of wheat in my grain mix

100 divided by 150 is .6666666 parts of 100. Rounded up, it equals 67%. 100 lb of wheat would be 67% of my 150 pound grain mix.

For the grain sorghum, 50 lb of sorghum is what % of 150 lb?

Calculating the percentage of grain sorghum

50 divided by 150 is .3333333 parts of 100. Rounded down, it's 33%
50 lb of grain sorghum would be 33% of my mix.
CHECK: 67% wheat + 33% sorghum = 100% grain mix

Step 2: Find the protein in the grain mixture

The formula is:


So for my grain mix, I'd plug in the percentages I calculated, and the crude protein for each:


I would follow the same steps for my supplement of cow peas and BOSS. I'll spare you the calculations, but the answer would be a mix of 20% crude protein.

Step 3: Plug these numbers into my Pearson Square

Calculating the parts needed for a homegrown dairy goat grain mix

The equal number of parts in my final mix means I have a 50/50 blend of the two mixtures.

There is website to help you figure this out too, the online Pearson Square calculator at prechel.net. You need to know the percent of each mixture plus a target percentage, also the weights. The calculator will give you the weights of each component needed to achieve the goal. That goal could be any nutrient: protein, fat, calcium, etc.

When I researched crude protein in various grains and seeds, I discovered quite a variation in estimates. Soil condition plays a huge factor in this, the more deficient the soil, the lower the protein and other nutrients will be. For now, I thought it best to stick the lower percentages. As we improve soil fertility, I know the nutritive value of our grains, hay, vegetables, and forage will improve as well.

I don't know if that makes any sense to you dear readers, but writing it out like this has helped me tremendously. If it's still confusing please let me know. I had to work through my own examples to get a grasp on it and will have to refer back to this post when I actually start doing it. I'm just thankful to have another tool tucked under my homesteading belt.

For those of you interested in keeping a copy of this information handy, I've put it and more together in a little eBook entitled How To Mix Feed Rations With The Pearson Square: grains, protein, calcium, phosphorous, balance, & more. It includes the steps covered here plus information on commercial feed ingredients, choosing the right feeds for various farm animals, crude protein, nitrogen, phosphorous, feeding to prevent hypocalcemia, ketosis, and urinary calculi. Also contains charts of nitrogen, calcium, and phosphorous content of common feedstuffs. Click here for chapter listings and where to buy.

January 29, 2012

More Thoughts on Growing Animal Feeds

Chickens & goats, just hangin' out
On the heels of ordering spring garden seeds, I'm thinking not only what to plant for us, but what to plant for our critters as well. I first wrote about growing our own animal feeds last July (Food Self-Sufficiency & Animals). This is one of our self-sufficiency goals, and no small one as we're learning. We've made some initial steps in that direction, but I have to confess; the more I research this topic, the more questions I have.

With goats, there seems to be a lot of controversy regarding feeding grains, particularly amongst homesteaders and small holders. As ruminants, goats' digestive systems are best suited for grass, hay, and forage. The problem with feeding grain to goats, even cracked grain, is acidosis. Acidosis occurs when something slow to digest, like grain, ferments before it's moved through the gut. This creates an acidic condition called acidosis. Acidosis can be fatal to goats, which is why care must be taken when changing their diets or increasing grain. It's also why many goat owners offer baking soda free choice on the side.

In particular, grain discussions always seem to mention corn. Corn appears to not be digestible to goats, and whole corn can cause diarrhea in addition to acidosis. Unfortunately, corn and corn gluten are common ingredients in commercial pelleted feeds.

Surprise & Jasmine love our weedy homegrown hay

The key to feeding less grain, is good quality hay and forage. For us that means pasture improvement, which is another goal we're working on. The breed of the goat seems to matter too. We currently have Nubians and a Pygmy. The Nubians are not what's considered "easy keepers," i.e. not easy to keep weight on them. While Pygmies can keep their rumens big and bulging on just hay, the Nubians can't. Kinders fortunately, inherit the feed to flesh conversion ability from their Pygmy genetics. (They inherit their copious rich milk production from their Nubian side).

Another feed controversy is soy. Not only because of non-digestibility (especially in raw soybeans), but because if contains so many phytohormones, which can cause thyroid and other hormone related problems. (This makes soy a problem for human consumption as well.) Soy, like corn gluten, is for protein. At 45 to 48% crude protein however, soy is hard to match in a feed mix.

De-seeding black oil sunflower heads. Just rub the heads over the screen.

Not only are corn and soy common ingredients in commercial feeds (both for livestock and for pets), but both are likely genetically modified products. These are strong motivators for growing and mixing my own feed. However, doing so without soy presents a protein challenge. Milking does are said to need 16% protein, laying hens 16 to 20%, though how they came up with those figures, I don't know. Since this is higher than what most grains, hay, and forage contain, it becomes a puzzle as to how to achieve at least a 16% protein content in a natural diet without soy.

Protein puzzles me on several levels. Animal scientists speak of "crude protein," which is actually the nitrogen content of a feed. This seems a useless concept, but it is how the protein in animal feeds is measured. They also speak of "digestible protein," which is what the animal can utilize. Human nutritionists on the other hand, speak in terms of "complete proteins" and "essential amino acids." I find myself wondering why these concepts can't apply to animal feeds as well.

Things I consider growing for protein include alfalfa or other legume hays (clover , vetch, lespedeza), though I'm not certain yet what varieties grow well in my part of the country. One good protein alternative for me, would seem to be comfrey. At 22 to 33% protein, it can be fed fresh (the goats love it) or dried like hay. Comfrey, like alfalfa, also provides calcium. Grain amaranth is another possibility, with crude protein levels of 12 to 17%. Some folks say though, that since it's in the pigweed family (reportedly poisonous to goats), it shouldn't be fed to them. Many other goat owners however, report no problems. Something I haven't tried yet but plan to experiment with this summer, is flax seed. At 20 to 25% crude protein, it seems worth a try.

Protein for the chickens is easier to manage. For one thing, they love raw goat milk! And whey, and meat scraps, and grubs from the garden. Protein for chickens is another reason a worm bed is on this year's homestead goal list. The milk also provides much needed calcium for egg shell production, as do those egg shells themselves. Dried and finely crushed, the chickens love them, and between these two things, their shells are strong and hard without supplementing with oyster shells (something I can't produce for myself).

Ozark Razorback cowpeas

I'm still buying packaged layer ration which is offered free choice, but have stopped buying scratch (a mixture of cracked corn and whole wheat). I give them homegrown whole corn and a big head of amaranth in the morning, and a little more corn at night. They actually seem to prefer this to the commercial feed, along with whatever bugs, seeds, and greens they can forage for themselves. They don't eat a lot of layer ration anymore. Every couple of days I give them a quart of milk, plus the finely crushed dried egg shells. Last summer I grew a seed crop of Ozark Razorback field peas, all of which I hope to plant this year for feed. Then I read that the trypsin in raw beans is toxic to chickens.  sigh

This is where my own research almost becomes a problem. Animal diets, like human diets, seem to be shrouded in controversy; one person claims X is dangerous while another swears by it. Pulses in particular, are said to be indigestible unless processed. So now I'm supposed to cook for my chickens and goats too? I begin to ponder, and wonder how people fed their animals properly before industrially manufactured feeds became available. Some might say all livestock until that time was undernourished, though I realize that soil nutrients have been depleted over the decades. It seems to me that the more scientific the process gets, the more complicated things become. Not that science hasn't benefited us greatly, but when it walked in the door, the simple life seems to have gone out the window. On the other hand, perhaps our pursuit of high production purebreds has forced us to rely on high production feeds as well?

For the goats, I've experimented with my own grain mix of 2 parts oats, 2 parts whole wheat, and 1 part black oil sunflower seeds, all locally available. Whether I have that on hand or am feeding commercial pellets, I also supplement with alfalfa pellets for protein and calcium, since our homegrown hay is not the best quality yet. To my last batch of grain mix, I was able to add the BOSS I harvested from the garden, plus most of the seed I collected from my harvest of broom corn.

Broom corn: "whisks" for me, dried leaves and seed grain for the goats

Broom corn is actually a sorghum. The sorghums can be grown for grain, syrup, or broom making in my case. It did very well for me and I discovered that the goats also relish the leaves, either fresh or dried. Actually I've learned that quite a few things (herbs, greens, & leaves) can be dried and tossed into the hay as a treat. This year I plan to plant a variety called Mennonite. It reportedly can be used for syrup making and grain.

I've also been experimenting with gardening for them, seeing what else we can grow and forage that they'll eat. For goats, it's all relative. Something they'll turn their noses up at during summer when there's more choice, is the very thing they'll fight over when winter pickins are slim. I planted a few items just for them in the winter garden, mangels for example, and collards, which we can eat too. They get greens from the turnips, beets, and kale, plus mangel thinnings, turnip roots and some of my stored sweet potatoes too. They like rose hips, cabbage, and broccoli leaves as well. I'd hoped to have pumpkins and winter squash for them as well, but mine didn't do well this year. Next summer I'll plant sugar beets for them, and Jerusalem Artichokes for them and us too. A good article about goats and garden vegetables can be found here, "Planting a Goat Garden".

Well, this has been a long post, and I know some of it is redundant; very similar to what I wrote in my first post on this subject. Though we've made some progress on this, my questions obviously remain the same. If you don't have critters or aren't interested in growing your own feeds, I've probably lost you long since. Unfortunately it would appear that I still have more questions than answers.  Does everything in life have to be this complicated?

UPDATE: Well, I finally pulled together my research and experience with feeding goats and put it into a little eBook entitled How To Garden For Goats: gardening, foraging, small-scale grain and hay, & more. Click here for a list of chapters and where to buy.

December 13, 2011

Of Compost & Kitchen Scraps

I know others have been saying this, but it's hard to believe it's December already. That means the year's end is right around the corner, and that means it's time to evaluate how well we achieved this year's goals. I've been reflecting on those, and doing so has me thinking about almost everything we do around here, even compost.

I reckon that over the years, we've tried almost every method of composting ever invented. We've tried piles, trenches, single bins, double bins, triple bins, bins with no doors, bins with removable doors, rings of wire fencing, and a homemade compost tumbler. We've turned daily, we've incorporated perforated pipe to provide oxygen, and we've tried the same with corn stalks too (both so-called no turn methods). We've covered our piles and left them open to air. It doesn't matter how you slice it, dice it, or julienne fry it, making compost is work. As in labor. There's no easy way to get it done.

Beginnings of a new compost pile.
Our first compost piles were mostly kitchen scraps and leaves, because that was all we had. That was in the days when the formula was complicated and recipes called for specific amounts of leaves, manure, straw, kitchen scraps, grass clippings, hair clippings, sawdust, legumes, etc. Even though we turned faithfully, our compost was slow to make. Very slow. Eventually I got three angora rabbits and we discovered the wonder of manure. What an amazing difference that made.

I have to say that in the end we didn't like the bins, hoops, or tumbler. We found that a simple pile on the ground suited us best. Of all the methods we did try, we discovered that trench composting was the best way to go with kitchen scraps. Simply dig a trench in a unplanted place in the garden, dump in kitchen scraps as you have then, and cover each addition with dirt. Most things decomposed very quickly right in the garden, with the exception of egg shells and hair.

Covered to keep chickens out,
and so the rain  won't wash it away
Covered or uncovered? We've tried both ways. Uncovered, we found that the compost dried out too quickly and when it rained, too many of the nutrients washed downhill. When we left it uncovered, we had the biggest, greenest, healthiest, most potent poison ivy our side of the Mississippi. More recently, we've learned that having it covered keeps the chickens from spreading it all over the yard. Some folks say it won't get enough oxygen if it's covered, but we've never found that to be a problem. The key always boils down to frequent turning. The more frequently it's turned, the faster it makes.

Rows are easier to turn than piles
Having livestock makes composting all the more productive. Every time I clean out the chicken coop or goat stalls I think, GARDEN GOLD. We like to make long rows of the straw/leaf/manure mixture, wetting each wheel barrow load well. Any kitchen or garden scraps are layered in (no seedy weeds though) and the whole thing is covered with black plastic. For me, a long row is easier to turn than a big 4x4 foot pile.

Nowadays the recipe for compost is simpler, a ratio actually, of carbon to nitrogen. The ideal is considered around 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen. Since these aren't distinctly measurable in various compostable items, it is often recommended to use 2 parts "green," nitrogen rich ingredients (i.e. manure, kitchen scraps, fresh grass clippings), to 1 part "brown," carbonaceous ingredients, (i.e. dried leaves, straw, hay, sawdust). Of course, you can get as complicated as you want with this. A good detailed explanation can be found here.

My compost sifter
For me, even that's too complicated and I think making compost is something most folks can figure out simply by doing and observing. No need to measure or weigh anything, nor take it's temperature. If it's radiating heat, it's working. If it isn't, it's not. If it's stinky, it's too wet and needs air; add dried leaves or straw and turn. If it's too slow, it needs water if it's dry, otherwise manure (or grass clippings, etc) to speed it up. When it's black and crumbly, it's done. For the impatient, like me, it can be sifted, and the big chunks tossed into a new compost pile.

Ideally, I'd like to make my compost just from barn cleanings: straw, leaves, and manure. I'd rather feed kitchen and garden scraps to the animals, who can utilize the nutrition as they convert them into that garden gold. Right now we feed a lot of our scraps to the chickens and goats, but there's a lot they won't eat. In thinking about future goals, we'd like to add pigs to help with that, and earthworms for what none of them will eat, things like tea bags, coffee grounds, soggy cardboard, etc. Not sure if we'll add both of these to our goals list for next year, worms for sure. Pigs, we still need to talk about but it's something we definitely need to consider.

How about you? Care to share your experiences and best tips?

July 15, 2011

Food Self-Sufficiency & Animals

I received a lot of excellent comments on my "The Economics of Food Self-Sufficiency" post. Most of you, like me, see a definite benefit to growing your own food, but don't see a significant savings monetarily. I going to hazard a guess that this is because most of us are in what Dan and I call the establishment phase of homesteading. Most of us are starting from scratch. We do not have the benefit of inheriting the family farm and the knowledge and skills to go with it. Nor do we have the benefit of a local, like-minded community, where social gatherings center around work days: barn raisings, canning bees, harvest days, corn huskings, butchering, sugaring off. Most of us know what our goal is, but aren't always certain of the best way to achieve it.

Black Oil Sunflower Seeds
Crude protein 16.8%
Digestible protein 13.9%
Feed for: goats, chickens

When it comes to food self-sufficiency, I figure we have two choices. We must either learn to grow everything we want to eat, or we must learn to eat what we can grow. A vegetable garden is the most basic, and a fruit orchard often follows that. Animals take it to another level. The benefits of eggs and milk alone, appeal. In addition, there is meat for those who eat it, manure for fields and garden, increases of flock and herd for selling or bartering, and the simple pleasures and entertainment that animals provide. The trade-off is, now, instead of buying our own food, we buy food for our animals. No relief for the pocketbook there.

Dan and I decided at the beginning, that we wanted to become self-sufficient in regards to our animals. Each animal must contribute to our needs, and we in turn must not keep more animals than our land can properly provide for. That means we have to learn how to grow our own animal feed.

Field corn
Crude protein 8.7%
Digestible protein 6.7%
Feed for: chickens, humans

I've spent a lot of hours researching this, and have run in to the same problem I did when it came to eggs and chickens; much of the information out there is based on the scientific approach, which is aimed at production and profit. Recipes for feed for example, are so complicated as to be discouraging. I don't even have a local source for some of the ingredients. And the cost? Prohibitive.

On the other hand, it would be a mistake to oversimplify the whole thing and think, well, back in the day they didn't feed them anything extra. We have to keep in mind that back in the day, topsoils hadn't eroded much and the nutrients hadn't been leached out. Thanks to decades of modern agricultural practices, our soils are often little more than a medium to hold the plants up. Because of that, our foods are no longer nutritionally adequate for humans or animals. Unless one happens to find a piece of virgin land to homestead on, this is a problem.

Wheat
Crude protein 13.2%
Digestible protein 11.1%
Feed for: goats, chickens, humans

So. We've set a goal to grow our own animal feeds. We look at this as a long term goal, which we can only accomplish one step at a time. We've begun with some experimental patches of wheat, corn, cowpeas, and black oil sunflower seeds.

One priority, is to make sure they get enough protein. A milking doe is said to need a diet of about 16% protein. Laying hens, 16 to 18%. As I've researched protein, I've learned there is a difference between crude protein and digestible protein. Crude protein is basically the sum total of the nitrogen in the plant. Crude protein figures include both digestible and indigestible protein. Whether or not protein is digestible, depends on the protein source. My copy of Raising Milk Goats the Modern Way (an older version of Storey's Guide to Raising Dairy Goats) has a great chart in it showing the average composition of selected goat feeds. It gives both crude and digestible proteins, which I find very useful. Obviously this can apply to other animal feeds as well.

Cowpeas
Crude protein 23.4%
Digestible protein 20.1%
feed for: chickens, goats

There are other things to consider: calcium, roughage, vitamins, trace minerals, etc. We'll have to experiment to figure out what grows best in our part of the country, which will also meet these needs. Our wheat grew well and our corn is so far. I plan to experiment with things like oats, barley, millet, as well.

Something we grew last year was amaranth.

Amaranth, Golden Giant
Crude protein 12.5 - 17.6%
Toxic raw???

The chickens didn't seem to care for it, but the goats ate it. I later read it is toxic unless cooked, so I stopped giving it to the goats and didn't plant a patch this year. I know there are numerous articles about sprouting and cooking feeds for animals, but to be honest, I don't have the time to mess with that. I need a regime that meets my animals needs, but is simple. I still read mixed reports on amaranth, and I have enough volunteer plants to harvest quite a bit anyway. For the time being, it's not on our list of feeds to grow.

In addition to grains, there is pasture, browse, and hay of course, Pasture improvement / hay is one of the next projects on our list. Plus, there are a lot of things we can grow in the garden for feed: turnips, beets, carrots, Jerusalem artichokes, mangles, collards, pumpkins, winter squashes, etc.

Comfrey
Crude protein: 22 - 33%
Feed for: goats

Obviously this is not a goal we will reach in just a year or even two. It will take experimenting in regards to the amount of seed we need to plant and the expected harvest. It will take trial and error as we explore the best possibilities, but at least we've begun.

Those of us pursuing a goal of self-sufficiency understand that it is a difficult goal to achieve. Not only in terms of skills, knowledge, and resources, but because our culture is not set up for us to succeed. One of the biggest obstacles is having a mortgage. In addition, the tools and resources we need are expensive; ever price an off-grid energy system for your home? However, I'm a firm believer that something is better than nothing. A tomato plant on the patio is better than none. Growing at least some of our own food is better than none. Some relief on our feed bill is better than none. It's a journey, a process. When I get discouraged I consider the alternatives. Is there any other life I'd rather be living than this?

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