January 31, 2012

Of Kitchen Cabinets & Countertops

I read in a kitchen design book that a typical kitchen remodel can cost anywhere from $15,000 to $60,000. I was shocked.  I assume that the $60,000 price tag includes solid gold faucets for the sink? I'd rather pay off our mortgage. I reckon though, that if one hires a kitchen designer, architect, contractor, plumbers, electricians, and carpenters; plus buys all new cabinetry, appliances, lighting, windows, and flooring, one could rack up quite a bill.

We're replacing quite a few things in our kitchen too, including the windows, door, cabinets, countertop, exterior walls, and light fixtures, plus putting down a new floor. However, we're doing the planning, designing, and installation ourselves. Even so, I'm conscientious about the cost of all these things, because they represent hours that Dan has to be away from the homestead. I consider too, that every dollar saved on one thing, can be invested in something else we need. For the base cabinets, I scoured Craigslist for weeks, looking for bargains. I finally found someone selling a truckload of 2nd hand cabinets. Everything was pretty much picked over by the time we got there, but we were able to buy two pieces. The other two I needed, we got new from the same builders surplus warehouse where I bought the two new windows and the kitchen back door. We spent a total of $270 for almost 9 feet of base cabinets plus an over-fridge wall cabinet.

I thought we did great until we laid them out. What the gentleman sold us as a 54 inch blind corner cabinet, turned out to be 57 inches. That was 3 inches too many to fit on that wall!

Shortening one of the base cabinets.

Super Dan to the rescue. He managed to shorten that cabinet so that everything will fit across that wall. Fortunately that blind corner will butt up against 12 inch deep wall shelves rather than another 24 inch cabinet, so the lost inches don't matter quite so much. (To see proposed floor plan, click here.)


Though all the cabinets are oak, the trade-off for mixing and matching is slight variations in size, different finishes (or unfinishes), and different styles of door framings and drawer faces. I can live with that though, considering the price we paid. My "fix" for this will be paint. While I personally think it's approaching sacrilegious to paint oak, there's no way I could match the stain color. I'm hoping that being the same color and having matching hinges, knobs, and pulls will visually tie them together and minimize their differences.

The laminate colors match my dining nook
wallpaper border quite well
We also have the countertops, which we bought sometime between Thanksgiving and Christmas. While Dan loves granite, we bought laminate because of budget. That doesn't hurt my feelings though, because I'm not too crazy about granite anyway. I found ours in stock at Lowes. Stock pieces offer less selection, but are much more economical than special order (these were $10 less per linear foot). We bought a standard 10 foot countertop with a molded in backsplash for the cabinets I showed you above, and a 4 by 8 foot sheet of laminate in the same color pattern. We'll use this to make a matching DIY countertop for the peninsula. Well, Dan will. ;)

What we bought wasn't my first pick. The one I actually liked best was the least expensive, which pleased me. Not that price is always a top consideration; I also thought it was the prettiest. It was lighter in color (which is why I liked it) but unfortunately, didn't work with my color samples; it was too yellowish. I might not be fussy about my cabinet styles matching perfectly, but I am fussy about matching colors! Dan liked these best anyway, because they have that granite look. I liked them because they were the second least expensive. Best of all, it coordinates with the colors in my dining nook wallpaper border.

We still have to get the kitchen sink, but that's a ways down the road yet considering we have to install the floor before the cabinets, and we're still waiting on that. It's just nice to finally get glimpses of it all coming together.

January 29, 2012

More Thoughts on Growing Animal Feeds

Chickens & goats, just hangin' out
On the heels of ordering spring garden seeds, I'm thinking not only what to plant for us, but what to plant for our critters as well. I first wrote about growing our own animal feeds last July (Food Self-Sufficiency & Animals). This is one of our self-sufficiency goals, and no small one as we're learning. We've made some initial steps in that direction, but I have to confess; the more I research this topic, the more questions I have.

With goats, there seems to be a lot of controversy regarding feeding grains, particularly amongst homesteaders and small holders. As ruminants, goats' digestive systems are best suited for grass, hay, and forage. The problem with feeding grain to goats, even cracked grain, is acidosis. Acidosis occurs when something slow to digest, like grain, ferments before it's moved through the gut. This creates an acidic condition called acidosis. Acidosis can be fatal to goats, which is why care must be taken when changing their diets or increasing grain. It's also why many goat owners offer baking soda free choice on the side.

In particular, grain discussions always seem to mention corn. Corn appears to not be digestible to goats, and whole corn can cause diarrhea in addition to acidosis. Unfortunately, corn and corn gluten are common ingredients in commercial pelleted feeds.

Surprise & Jasmine love our weedy homegrown hay

The key to feeding less grain, is good quality hay and forage. For us that means pasture improvement, which is another goal we're working on. The breed of the goat seems to matter too. We currently have Nubians and a Pygmy. The Nubians are not what's considered "easy keepers," i.e. not easy to keep weight on them. While Pygmies can keep their rumens big and bulging on just hay, the Nubians can't. Kinders fortunately, inherit the feed to flesh conversion ability from their Pygmy genetics. (They inherit their copious rich milk production from their Nubian side).

Another feed controversy is soy. Not only because of non-digestibility (especially in raw soybeans), but because if contains so many phytohormones, which can cause thyroid and other hormone related problems. (This makes soy a problem for human consumption as well.) Soy, like corn gluten, is for protein. At 45 to 48% crude protein however, soy is hard to match in a feed mix.

De-seeding black oil sunflower heads. Just rub the heads over the screen.

Not only are corn and soy common ingredients in commercial feeds (both for livestock and for pets), but both are likely genetically modified products. These are strong motivators for growing and mixing my own feed. However, doing so without soy presents a protein challenge. Milking does are said to need 16% protein, laying hens 16 to 20%, though how they came up with those figures, I don't know. Since this is higher than what most grains, hay, and forage contain, it becomes a puzzle as to how to achieve at least a 16% protein content in a natural diet without soy.

Protein puzzles me on several levels. Animal scientists speak of "crude protein," which is actually the nitrogen content of a feed. This seems a useless concept, but it is how the protein in animal feeds is measured. They also speak of "digestible protein," which is what the animal can utilize. Human nutritionists on the other hand, speak in terms of "complete proteins" and "essential amino acids." I find myself wondering why these concepts can't apply to animal feeds as well.

Things I consider growing for protein include alfalfa or other legume hays (clover , vetch, lespedeza), though I'm not certain yet what varieties grow well in my part of the country. One good protein alternative for me, would seem to be comfrey. At 22 to 33% protein, it can be fed fresh (the goats love it) or dried like hay. Comfrey, like alfalfa, also provides calcium. Grain amaranth is another possibility, with crude protein levels of 12 to 17%. Some folks say though, that since it's in the pigweed family (reportedly poisonous to goats), it shouldn't be fed to them. Many other goat owners however, report no problems. Something I haven't tried yet but plan to experiment with this summer, is flax seed. At 20 to 25% crude protein, it seems worth a try.

Protein for the chickens is easier to manage. For one thing, they love raw goat milk! And whey, and meat scraps, and grubs from the garden. Protein for chickens is another reason a worm bed is on this year's homestead goal list. The milk also provides much needed calcium for egg shell production, as do those egg shells themselves. Dried and finely crushed, the chickens love them, and between these two things, their shells are strong and hard without supplementing with oyster shells (something I can't produce for myself).

Ozark Razorback cowpeas

I'm still buying packaged layer ration which is offered free choice, but have stopped buying scratch (a mixture of cracked corn and whole wheat). I give them homegrown whole corn and a big head of amaranth in the morning, and a little more corn at night. They actually seem to prefer this to the commercial feed, along with whatever bugs, seeds, and greens they can forage for themselves. They don't eat a lot of layer ration anymore. Every couple of days I give them a quart of milk, plus the finely crushed dried egg shells. Last summer I grew a seed crop of Ozark Razorback field peas, all of which I hope to plant this year for feed. Then I read that the trypsin in raw beans is toxic to chickens.  sigh

This is where my own research almost becomes a problem. Animal diets, like human diets, seem to be shrouded in controversy; one person claims X is dangerous while another swears by it. Pulses in particular, are said to be indigestible unless processed. So now I'm supposed to cook for my chickens and goats too? I begin to ponder, and wonder how people fed their animals properly before industrially manufactured feeds became available. Some might say all livestock until that time was undernourished, though I realize that soil nutrients have been depleted over the decades. It seems to me that the more scientific the process gets, the more complicated things become. Not that science hasn't benefited us greatly, but when it walked in the door, the simple life seems to have gone out the window. On the other hand, perhaps our pursuit of high production purebreds has forced us to rely on high production feeds as well?

For the goats, I've experimented with my own grain mix of 2 parts oats, 2 parts whole wheat, and 1 part black oil sunflower seeds, all locally available. Whether I have that on hand or am feeding commercial pellets, I also supplement with alfalfa pellets for protein and calcium, since our homegrown hay is not the best quality yet. To my last batch of grain mix, I was able to add the BOSS I harvested from the garden, plus most of the seed I collected from my harvest of broom corn.

Broom corn: "whisks" for me, dried leaves and seed grain for the goats

Broom corn is actually a sorghum. The sorghums can be grown for grain, syrup, or broom making in my case. It did very well for me and I discovered that the goats also relish the leaves, either fresh or dried. Actually I've learned that quite a few things (herbs, greens, & leaves) can be dried and tossed into the hay as a treat. This year I plan to plant a variety called Mennonite. It reportedly can be used for syrup making and grain.

I've also been experimenting with gardening for them, seeing what else we can grow and forage that they'll eat. For goats, it's all relative. Something they'll turn their noses up at during summer when there's more choice, is the very thing they'll fight over when winter pickins are slim. I planted a few items just for them in the winter garden, mangels for example, and collards, which we can eat too. They get greens from the turnips, beets, and kale, plus mangel thinnings, turnip roots and some of my stored sweet potatoes too. They like rose hips, cabbage, and broccoli leaves as well. I'd hoped to have pumpkins and winter squash for them as well, but mine didn't do well this year. Next summer I'll plant sugar beets for them, and Jerusalem Artichokes for them and us too. A good article about goats and garden vegetables can be found here, "Planting a Goat Garden".

Well, this has been a long post, and I know some of it is redundant; very similar to what I wrote in my first post on this subject. Though we've made some progress on this, my questions obviously remain the same. If you don't have critters or aren't interested in growing your own feeds, I've probably lost you long since. Unfortunately it would appear that I still have more questions than answers.  Does everything in life have to be this complicated?

UPDATE: Well, I finally pulled together my research and experience with feeding goats and put it into a little eBook entitled How To Garden For Goats: gardening, foraging, small-scale grain and hay, & more. Click here for a list of chapters and where to buy.

January 27, 2012

Garden 2012: Seeds

My collection of seeds from 2010 & 2011,
I also still have a few from 2009

I've inventoried my saved seeds, I've perused the seed catalogues, and I've doodled some on graph paper. I think I'm ready to make this year's seed orders.

My seed collection is expanding a little every year, and I have a couple of year's worth of saved seed. My ultimate goal is to be totally seed sustainable, but there are still some things I need to learn. Plus I am still experimenting with varieties and various plants.  Based on the seed viability charts, I'm hoping to be able to rotate both what I grow, and the seeds I save. I'm thinking this will give us the greatest variety in the longrun, and help me avoid accidentally crossed seeds. Here's what's in those jars, containers, and shoe boxes pictured above:
  • Amaranth, Golden Giant
  • Basil, sweet
  • Beans (both green & dried)
    • Black Turtle
    • Hutterite Soup
    • Kentucky Wonder
    • State Half Runner
  • Beets, Red Detroit
  • Broom Corn
  • Broccoli (undecided on which is best)
    • DeCicco
    • Waltham 29
  • Buckwheat (just a handful)
  • Calendula
  • Cantaloupe, Hales' Best
  • Carrot, Scarlet Nantes
  • Corn
    • Stowell's Evergreen (sweet)
    • Truckers Favorite (field)
  • Cosmos
  • Cowpeas, Ozark Razorback
  • Cucumber
    • Marketmore 76 (we like this one best)
    • National Pickling
  • Lettuce
    • Oakleaf
    • Parris Cos
  • Marigolds (several varieties)
  • Melon
    • Hales Best
    • Green Nutmeg
  • Okra, Clemson Spineless
  • Peas, Wando
  • Peppers, Chinese Giant
  • Popcorn
    • Calico
    • Japanese Hulless
  • Pumpkin, Small Sugar (hasn't done well)
  • Radish, 
    • Cherry Belle
    • unknown (! probably crossed in spite of myself)
  • Squash
    • Acorn, Table Queen (winter)
    • Buttercup (winter)
    • Butternut, Walthams, (winter)
  • Tomato (didn't save Brandywine 'cuz we didn't think it was as tasty as Rutgers)
    • Roma
    • Rutgers
  • Turnip, White globe purple top
  • Watermelon, Small Sugar (gonna try bush type this year)
  • Yarrow
  • Zinnias, several varieties

The fun part is figuring out what I want to order. In the past I've always tried to divvy my order amongst all the seed companies I want to support. Each year though, I order less because I've saved more. Now, all that shipping & handling adds up. This year I figured out which two companies carry everything I want, from the ones that send me catalogues that is.

I've ordered from Shumway since the 1970s. Even though they don't carry organic seeds, and don't necessarily specialize in open pollinated seeds, they still have a good selection of heritage seeds, plus carry things others don't, like mangels, sugar beets, collards, bulk farm seed (pasture grasses and legumes, and field corn).
  • Buckwheat, 5 lbs (for weed control?)
  • Collards 
    • Vates (for the goats)
    • Morris Heading (for us)
  • Elderberry bushes, 2 (adding to my elder bush hedge)
  • Sugar beets, Bucklunch (for the goats)
  • Strawberries, 50 (to replace those lost by the wire grass)

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds
  • Beans, long, Red Seeded Asparagus (testing another variety)
  • Celery, Tendercrisp (celery was Dan's request)
  • Cushaw, orange (instead of pumpkins)
  • Oats, hulless (for us, will plant hulled for the critters)
  • Sorghum, Mennonite (for animal feed until we get a sorghum press)
  • Summer Savory (2nd try)
  • Summer squash, Tatume (still experimenting with varieties)

In addition to these, are the seeds I bought on clearance last fall, from Sustainable Seed Company:
  • Beans, Dwarf Horticultural Taylor (for drying)
  • Eggplant, Florida Highbush (another 2nd try)
  • Peppers (expanding varieties)
    • Habanero Orange 
    • Tampiqueno
  • Poppies, Flanders Red (childhood reminiscences)
  • Tomatoes, Amish Paste (just to try another variety)
  • Watermelon, Bush Sugar Baby (bush to save bed space)

I've also finally figured out where I want to plant some Jerusalem artichoke. Rather than mail order these however, I will just buy them at someplace like Whole Foods. Same with my potatoes. Mine did lousy last year, so I'll start all over with Red Pontiac seed potatoes, which we love and are locally available.

Everything else will be grown from saved seed, with the exception of sweet potatoes, which I'll grow from slips. Of the two varieties I planted last summer, Vardaman did the best, so I'll use it for the slips. I did consider a different variety of field corn, Hickory King. When I researched grinding cornmeal, it was highly recommended for that purpose. However it boasted large kernels and since I also use mine for chicken feed, I decided to stick with the smaller kerneled Truckers Favorite. I have no complaints about the corn bread it makes, and I have plenty of saved seed from last year's harvest.

The next step is figuring out what will go where! More garden fun. :)